September 16, 2006 – Wajir, Kenya

     Wajir is probably one of the places you cross off the “have to see” list.  Wajir occupies the northeast portion of Kenya bordering Somalia.  The Wajir ‘district” is about the size of Minnesota and broken into 12 regions.  It’s very hot (104 F as I write) and arid – similar in climate to Mesa Arizona (sans air-conditioning).  The residents are primarily Somali pastoralists – the soil is almost all sand – no tillable soil to speak of – so instead of farming, they raise livestock – goats, sheep and cattle.  They are nomadic - constantly moving around within the region looking for grazing and water for their animals.   Their homes are dome shaped huts made primarily from grass and whatever else they can get their hands on.  I have seen building materials such as burlap and plastic bags, cardboard and even newspaper.

     The people are very different from anywhere else I have traveled in Africa.  They look and dress different – I guess I’d call it Arabic as opposed to African.  They also make no bones about the fact they don’t like white people – and outright hate Americans.  I’ve been a Canadian for about a week now.  I get a lot of glares, and am called names – most of which I don’t understand anyway.  I have seen only one other white person during my stay in Wajir – a German woman who runs the Catholic Guest House. 

      The main mode of travel is by foot.  Whether traveling within Wajir Town, or coming from a village 80km away – most walk.  Other traffic on the streets of Wajir includes many donkey-carts, a dozen taxis and a bus that comes on Tuesdays and Saturdays. 

     Photographs are strictly forbidden.  I don’t have photos of Wajir, or any of the people other than those from the Stabilization Center.  I’ve not figured out if it’s religious, cultural or a combination – but they do not like their photo taken.  If they see a camera, they will take it.

     The residents of Wajir are extremely poor.  This has been by far the greatest area of need I have seen so far.  Aid and Relief are in great demand here, and several of the big name NGOs have set up shop here to help.  I don’t see much development being done – nor do I know what you could do.  Organizations like Merlin (see next blog) are doing educational development with hygiene and sanitation programs, but no one is addressing long-term solutions to their problems.  As I mentioned earlier – they earn their living raising livestock.  Livestock need water and something green to eat.  This is the desert – there is no water – there is nothing green to eat.  The goats, sheep and cattle die of starvation and dehydration – the people have lost their livelihood and also starve.  The NGO Landrovers roll in, set up feeding and medical programs – journalists report to the west on the severe “drought” and “famine” – people donate money – the locals buy more livestock – the cycle continues.

     This cycle has repeated itself for hundreds of years.  Is it really considered a “drought” if it doesn’t rain in the desert?  Is it truly a “famine” if it happens every year?  The need is real – as real as I have seen.  The children in this district are far beyond hungry or malnourished – they are literally starving to death.  The gallant efforts of the west, through the NGOs save thousands of lives – but the structure never changes.  I can’t be the first person to notice that the desert is not a great place for agriculture or livestock.  (If 3M is looking to add a sandpaper plant – this area has no shortage of abrasive material.)  The late Sam Kinnison (pastor/really foul mouthed comedian), commented in one of his routines “Don’t send these people any more food – send them luggage!  They live in the desert.  Nothing lives in the desert.  They need to move!”

     Grossly oversimplified, but point well made.  I don’t have a good answer.  In America, millions of people live in desert areas – but they don’t depend on agriculture and livestock to stay alive.  They have government and infrastructure – roads, water, sewer, electricity, industry, air-conditioning, and vehicles – all to make life in the desert manageable – even desirable.  Wajir is starting from square one.  Their government “ministers” build 3 and 4 story mansions (which they seldom actually occupy).  In the shadows of each mansion, hundreds of people struggle to exist in tiny grass huts.  They don’t even have a real road.  Because of the difficulty traveling to the area everything is considerably more expensive.  Grocery and sundry items are at least 2 and sometimes 3 times higher here than in a town like Kijabe – which only makes the situation worse.  The little money the people can scratch together doesn’t go very far.  I’m sure it’s tough to get good help here – the weather is brutal, the cost of living immense – what’s not to love about it.

     I am really not making light of the hellish nightmare these people endure day-to-day, year-to-year.  Just trying to make the point: If you keep doing what you’re doing, you keeping getting what you got.  Right now the aid/relief is their only hope of survival – but it’s a huge, thousand-year-old, dirty bandage re-applied to the same festering wound. 

     Another relevant piece of information:  The area is probably 90% Muslim.  The few Christian ministries that get started here are quickly chased away - the words “God forsaken” keep flashing in my mind.  For what I’ve seen of Africa so far – lesser presence of Christianity = greater level of poverty.  Please remember the people of Wajir, and all of the other “God forsaken” lands – in your prayers.  Pray that their basic needs are met and pray that hardened hearts and minds are given rest, and a chance to relax – perhaps a chance to let in a little light – a little “Son-light”.  I’ve seen the light and love of Christ do some amazing things – it certainly couldn’t hurt.

Shine!