August 17, 2006  Thika - Kenya

     I have been in Kenya for a little over 2 weeks now.  For as close as these countries are – literally sharing borders, there are some remarkable differences between them.  The first difference I noticed was lights.  I arrived in Nairobi by bus, about midnight (was scheduled to arrive at 8pm, so right on time).  I couldn’t believe the lights in downtown Nairobi – fluorescent, neon, everything was lit.  In Dar es Salaam most of the lights at night are either candles or kerosene lanterns.  I spent the night in Nairobi and when I awoke the next morning and walked outside – I could have been in New York City. 

     The city is very clean.  The streets are clean and free of vendors, hawkers.  In Dar the streets were often strewn with trash and the vendors were so thick you couldn’t pass on many of the sidewalks.  The vendors in Dar are very aggressive constantly asking if you want a newspaper, shirt, fruit, watch or any of hundreds of other items.  I could not walk one block from my flat without being asked at least 10 times if I wanted a taxi.  The taxi drivers would literally push each other aside to get you to look at their taxi.  In Nairobi there are stores, newspaper stands etc.  If you would like a newspaper, you can ask for one – and get it without having 12 of them pushed in your face.  Most prices are marked in Nairobi, and you pay the marked price.  In Dar, nothing is marked and you pay whatever the vendor thinks he can get out of you.  There is definitely a ‘Mzungu” price in Dar – whatever a local would pay for something – a mzungu (white person) will pay at least double.  There is haggling, but it gets old – fast.  In Kenya, the further I have gotten from Nairobi the more I have noticed the Mzungu pricing.  It’s there just not as prevalent.

     Speaking of Mzungu – anywhere I went in Dar, I was called Mzungu constantly.  People would say it as you pass, they would yell it from across the street.  Mothers would say it children and point at me.  There were times when it was meant as a simple greeting, but there were times when it was meant as derogatory.  It makes you feel like a spectacle, like Bigfoot walking down the street.  The long stares and pointing are the same throughout Kenya, but for the most part, they don’t say it out load.

     Another big difference is the “give me money” syndrome.  In Dar I was approached several times per block with a request for anything from money, my radio, my hat – even my shoes.  People come right up to you and say “give me money”, or “I would happy to have your radio”.  It made friendships very difficult – just as you thought you were making progress with someone, the real reason for their kindness emerges – they want you to pay for their education, they want money, they want your laptop computer.  When they find out they are not going to get it – they move on.  This certainly not always the case.  I did make some genuine friends in Dar – Isaac, Mjema, Kato, the members of “My Idea and the Bishop to name a few.  These people were the exceptions – I believe they could see beyond my wallet and valued me as a person.  In contrast, I have never been asked for money in Nairobi – and very rarely in smaller towns and villages.  People, most with physical disabilities with sit with a sign and a cup asking for help, but they do not grab you begging and pleading.

     Most of the requests for money in Kenya come from what they call “street boys”.  These are boys, usually 12 to 20 years old that live in the streets.  You can pick them out blocks away as they are very dirty, tattered clothes and usually carry a large plastic bag holding all of their belongings.  Most of these boys are addicted to sniffing glue – something I did not see in Tanzania.  They buy bottles of glue, usually from shoe repair vendors, for about 30 shillings (50 cents).  They sniff the glue until they can barely walk or function then stumble though the town.  To maintain the “high’, they will suck a vacuum on the glue bottle and stick it to their lip.  This continues the absorption even when there are too incapacitated to sniff.  This often leaves open, swollen sores on their lips, making them easy to pick out.  When they are out of glue, and shillings – they get very unpleasant.  For all of the poverty I witnessed in Dar, I noticed very little drug abuse in town.  If it was there, it was kept off the streets.

     There is much more industry in Kenya.   Factories and commercial farms producing tea, coffee, plastics, car parts, fresh flowers and much more.  These factories seem to really boost the local economy, and the people live more comfortable lives as a result.  Most of the people in Kenya want to work – they want to make a better life, and will do what it takes to get there.  The work ethic is evident and strong.  Again, there are always exceptions, but most of then people in Tanzania are waiting for someone else to help them.  They will complain about the quality of their life, but are rarely willing to do anything about it.

     The fruits of Kenya’s labor are very evident.  Electricity, at least in towns is common, and reliable.  Most places have running water and flushing toilets – connected to sanitary sewers – that nearly completely eliminates public defecation.  It’s hard to explain, but people in Kenya seem to be going somewhere.  In Tanzania, there would be men standing around, sitting around – really doing nothing.  Most of the people in Kenya seem to be on their way to do something. 

     There does seem to be more of a contrast between the rich and poor in Kenya.  There is a lot of money in this country, and also a lot of poverty.  Just in Nairobi, literally millions live in slums making less than a dollar a day.  In Tanzania there seems to be less “rich” and more of a middle class.  An advantage Kenya has is the fact that there is opportunity.  People who decide to succeed usually can – they have to work very hard, but there are opportunities available.

      Other smaller but subtle differences I have noticed:

-                          tools – something as simple as a wheelbarrow.  I never saw a wheelbarrow in Tanzania.  They would fashion carts out of scrap wood and use old bicycle wheels to move it.  The same holds true for other tools.

-                          The grocery stores in Kenya are huge with vast selection.  Most of the supermarkets, even in Dar es Salaam were small and had very limited selection.

-                          Cost of living (food, rent, fuel) are quite a bit more expensive in Kenya – I would estimate between 25 and 35% on average.

-                          Guns – Dar has guns everywhere.  Armed guards at the entrance to every bank, store, even restaurants.  They also stand at the checkout counters, and patrol the stores.  Every building has a “watchman” and most are armed – either guns or clubs.  Most of the weapons look to be WWI vintage, and I would have serious doubts as to if they actually work (not willing to test the theory).  There are a few security companies in Kenya, but I have seen very few guns, outside of the Kenya Police.

     I have given much thought to what the difference is between to the two countries.  Why has one advanced so far beyond the other?  I’m sure the government structure has a lot to do with it, and I believe the Christian influence has much to do with it.  Of all of the “haves” and “have nots” – I think the biggest factor is hope.  Kenyans have hope.  Things may not be great, but they will get better – because they will make them better.  In Tanzania I did not see this hope.  Again, there are always exceptions, but most of the people just feel defeated – broken.  It’s no use trying to improve – we will always live in this poverty.

     The people in Tanzania have many needs.  They need food, clean water, roads, good government – the list seems endless – but by far the most important thing they need is hope.  Hope in themselves and faith in a God who can do anything.  Tanzania has all of the puzzle pieces – ample land, valuable natural resources, strong bodies and strong minds – they need only the belief in themselves that they can change their destiny.  They are still waiting for someone to rescue them – their government, Americans, Europeans – they are not coming.  They have waited for 200 years – and despite all of the money, food, aid and love poured into this country, they remain one of the poorest on the planet.  All along they have possessed the means to lift themselves out of extreme poverty.  Their rescuer is here – now.  It is Christ – and He is waiting for them.

He's waiting for you.  Shine!